Posted on

Seed shuckling wont come off cannabis seedling

How to Grow & Use Fava Beans (Broad Beans): As Food & Cover Crops!

Fava Beans are such a rad crop! Also known as “broad beans”, these hardy annual plants are multi-use, beneficial, and easy-to-grow – totally worthy of a spot in your garden. Commonly grown as a cover crop, fava beans are nitrogen-fixers – meaning they improve soil quality by adding nitrogen to it, rather than taking away from it. The nutrient-rich edible beans and greens are delicious, and bees love the flowers! Winning, all the way around.

After hearing all of that, are you interested in growing fava beans too?

Read along to learn all about growing fava beans, which is pretty dang simple! We’ll go over the benefits of growing fava beans, their preferred growing conditions, varieties, and how to plant and care for them. Additionally, I’ll hit you with some tips for harvesting, eating, and even preserving fava beans. Finally, let’s talk about maximizing the benefits of growing fava beans – by leaving their roots in the soil, and mulching with the greens!


1) Nitrogen-fixing

Fava Beans are a member of the legume family. As with most legumes, fava beans have the ability to “fix nitrogen”. But what does that mean exactly? Well, all plants have the ability to uptake nitrogen from the soil. That process is a normal and essential part of the plant life cycle! However, legumes do something a little extra special.

In addition to taking in nitrogen from the soil, they also have the ability to absorb and fix nitrogen from the air! They accomplish this through a beautiful symbiotic relationship with specialized bacteria called Rhizobia. The Rhizobia bacteria colonize the roots of legumes, form nodules, and draw in nitrogen – usually in excess than what the plant can use for energy. Therefore, a surplus is leftover and stored in the plant material. Additional nitrogen-fixing cover crops include peas, clover, vetch, lentil, flax, alfalfa, ryegrass, and other legumes like soybeans.

So why does this matter? Nitrogen is one of the key nutrients that all plants need to photosynthesize and healthily grow! However, nitrogen is also easily depleted in garden soil where crops are repeatedly grown, and thus needs to be replenished. Traditional agriculture systems simply add chemical fertilizers to accomplish this, which is harmful to the environment in a number of ways. Using natural, organic practices like cover crops and compost to feed our soil instead of synthetic fertilizers is a wonderful thing!

But that isn’t the only wonderful thing about favas….

2) The entire fava bean plant is edible!

Yep, you read that right! The beans, pods, leaves, you name it… All edible. Sure, some parts may be less desirable to eat, such as the tougher stems or older fuzzy pods, but the other parts are incredibly yummy and versatile! Fava bean leaves taste very similar to the bean: sweet, buttery, and earthy. They are rich in vitamins and minerals like folate, manganese, copper and phosphorus. The beans themselves are an excellent source of protein and soluble fiber as well. We routinely enjoy both the beans and greens with many meals!

3) Low-fuss & Low-pressure

Fava beans are very easy to grow, as long they’re planted in the right season. They prefer mild to cool weather conditions, which we’ll discuss more below. Fava beans also attract very few pests or diseases, and require minimal maintenance!

Even if you have a short growing window between hot and freezing weather (or vice versa) I still recommend planting fava beans somewhere in your garden. Let’s say unfavorable fava weather comes before the plants are mature enough to produce a fat batch of beans… Oh well! For us, we view the beans themselves as bonus – like the cherry on top of all of the other benefits of growing fava beans.

Worse case scenario? When freezing or frying weather is on the horizon, harvest some of the tender fava greens to enjoy, and allow the rest of the plant to fade in place to nourish the soil. Best case scenario? You’ll be snacking on some delectable fava beans… perhaps while sipping a glass of chianti. Both are worthy options.

Like I said, low pressure!


Fava Bean Preferred Growing Conditions


Fava beans favor weather that is not much warmer than 75°F during the day. Their ideal temperature range is 60 to 65°F, though they will tolerate colder temperatures down to 40°F as well. This makes them perfect for fall or spring planting in most locations!

Sun & Location

Fava beans grow best in full sun, but will not flower well in hot, dry conditions. Thankfully, they grow decently well in partial shade too. Meaning, if you’re worried about temperatures occasionally climbing over 75°F (especially for spring-planted favas with summer on the way), choose a planting location that receives afternoon shade or filtered sunlight throughout the day.

Fava beans can absolutely be grown in containers! Again, they’re not fussy about much. As long as you can follow the other general guidelines provided in this article, they’ll do great in a container too. We routinely grow them in half wine barrels, but have also grown them successfully in smaller fabric grow bags.


From planting seeds to harvest, fava beans require an average of 3 months of growing to mature. Different varieties will vary slightly in their days to maturity; some say 75 days and some up to 100. Therefore, choose varieties that suit your optimal growing window – especially if you are hoping for a good bean harvest. Note that smaller, less mature fava beans are the most tender to eat though! So even if they don’t have time to get huge, that is totally okay.

Soil & Water

Fava beans are not picky! They don’t mind cool, clay, or deficient soil – things that other plants typically do not love. Therefore, you don’t need to worry much about the soil quality (let alone fuss with amending it) before planting fava beans. However, favas won’t be happy with water-logged roots, so do choose a growing location and soil that can provide decent drainage. Provide regular water in order to maintain the soil moist but not soggy.

Fava Bean Varieties

The most common and popular variety of fava beans is Broad Windsor, and for a good reason! The plants are reliable and productive, and mature quickly to produce large delicious bean pods. Broad Windsor is what we primarily grow! Yet there are many other fun and unique types of fava beans out there. For example, we grew these “Extra Precoce A Grano Violetto” that develop purple beans inside their green pods! They do quickly change back to green when cooked though. Others are known to be exceptionally cold-hardy, such as Aguadulce.

We have experimented with a handful of different fava varieties over the years, but always come back to the tried-and-true Broad Windsor. Please, enjoy being more adventurous than we are!

Soaking Seeds & Planting Instructions

Once you have your fava bean seeds on hand, lets get planting! Like most beans, favas prefer to be directly sown outside. However, they aren’t as sensitive or prone to transplant shock as some beans, so if you need to start them indoors for whatever reason, that works too. Just ensure they’re transplanted out before they become too large or root bound.

To help aid in speedy and successful germination, soak the seeds in un-chlorinated water for 12 to 24 hours prior to planting. This is a great tip for all tough, large seeds!

Sow fava bean seeds 1 to 2 inches deep in the soil, about 6 inches a part. Lightly cover, water, and keep the soil moist to assist in germination. They can be a bit slow to sprout, so be patient! Some may pop up within a few days, some may take a few weeks.

Ongoing Care & Support

After fava beans have sprouted, they need very little care. Simply water on occasion and they’ll be happy. But did you know that fava bean plants can reach 4 feet tall?! So keep that in mind when you’re choosing their planting location – since they can shade out other nearby plants! Once fava bean plants begin to get tall, and especially as they become heavy with developing beans, you’ll want to provide support for them. In climates with strong wind or rain, you may even want to provide support earlier since they’ll be prone to flopping over in those conditions.

See also  Mekamika haze seeds

To support our fava beans, we simply put a few stakes around their planting area and run twine between them, creating a makeshift cage. Fava beans do not have tendrils that grab onto trellises like peas, nor do they wind themselves around their support structures like pole beans. You basically have to find a way to prop them up, more like tomatoes.

A crop of fava beans planted along side our winter veggies. Soon after this photo, we added a stake at each end of the row of fava plants, and ran twine in front and behind the plants to support them. The plants that grew in that spot next were very, very happy.

Harvesting Fava Beans & Greens

It is hard to go wrong when it comes to harvesting fava beans! Some folks enjoy the smaller, less mature bean pods. They even eat the whole thing, outer pod and all – like a snap pea! At this stage, the inner beans are exceptionally tender.

We generally allow the bean pods to get a bit larger before harvesting. Mature fava bean pods can reach over 6 inches long! You can tell when the inner beans are well-developed by feeling or observing the pod. As the beans grow to fill out the pod, it becomes bulbous and firm. However, the larger the fava beans, the tougher their outer skin can get. To remove the beans, pull up or twist on the bean to see if it easily disconnects from the plant. If not, use pruning snips or scissors.

The best fava greens to eat are the freshest tender growth on the tips of the plants. We typically harvest upper portions of stem and leaves about 6 to 12 inches long. As you continue to pluck beans, more will grow. As you trim the stems and foliage, it will encourage branching and fuller plants.

After Harvest or the Growing Season

This may be one of the most important points of this article: When it comes time to say goodbye to your fava bean plants, leave the roots in place! This way, the roots can decompose in the soil and feed it the nitrogen that the Rhizobia has worked so hard to store. Even more, take advantage of the nutrient-dense aboveground leaves and stems!

When fava season comes to an end, you could do a few different things. One is to simply allow the plants to die back and fade in place. This is an especially great option for fall-planted fava beans where winter is on the horizon, and you don’t intend to plant anything else there until next spring.

Another option is to cut the plants down (into pieces if you wish), and leave them on top of the soil to break down. This practice is known as “chop and drop” mulching. Or, instead of leaving them in the same bed they grew, you could also add the fava foliage to your compost pile or mulch another area. For example, we often top our large cannabis grow bags with fava plant mulch.

A batch of fava beans growing around our fruit trees. After harvesting all the beans, we cut the plants down, chopped them up a bit, and left them as mulch to enrich the soil.

To Shuck or Not to Shuck?

To answer this question, you’ll have to experiment for yourself! Each gardener and fava bean officinando has their preferred way to process and eat fava beans. Again, some eat the whole outer pod! Personally, I find it too fuzzy and fibrous. Therefore, we shell our pods to reveal the inner beans. Be sure to compost or mulch with those spent outer pods.

Additionally, each individual fava bean inside the pod is wrapped with a thin skin. Some folks are hellbent on removing that skin, shucking or peeling every little bean. In my opinion, this is usually unnecessary, too time-consuming, and a waste of good protein, fiber, and flavor – particularly for the smaller and more tender ones! Do not peel the little guys. Yet the skin around the older largest beans can definitely get tough. We sometimes peel those, but not always.

You can tell these fava beans have not been peeled because they still have their “nubbin” attached. Yet you can see the outer skin splitting to reveal the naked bean beneath on one. The skin is what contains a good deal of the favas earthy flavor, fiber, and protein!


Eating fresh

Fava beans are versatile little vegetables. You can enjoy them sautéed, roasted, pan-fried, and more! Most often, we add them to our favorite cast iron wok to sauté with various veggies and seasonings, and serve it all over brown rice, quinoa, lentils, or with eggs. We also routinely add them to soup. Pan-fried or roasted fava beans go particularly well with olive oil, garlic, salt, pepper, and even a little squeeze of lemon juice at the end!

For fava greens, we treat them much like kale or any other leafy green in our garden. Add handfuls of leaves to any sauté, stir fry, soup, frittata, quiche, salad, or more! Fava bean greens also make for an insanely delicious, nutritious, nutty pesto – which can also be frozen to preserve. Check out our fava green pesto recipe here.

Preservation ideas

There are SO many options for preserving fava beans too! Last season, we froze a lot of them to use in future soups or sautes. A quick tip for freezing fava beans (or any food, really): Lay them out on a baking sheet, not touching, and freeze this way first for 6 to 12 hours. Then package them together into a container for long-term storage in the freezer. Freezing them individually first prevents them from sticking and clumping together later, which makes it much easier to fish out just a handful of beans when you want them!

In addition to freezing, fava beans can be pickled, fermented, or dehydrated! We will definitely be doing a little of each this season, and I will report back with recipes. In the meantime, if you need a good pickling brine recipe, check out our easy refrigerator pickled peppers. Simply swap out the peppers for fava beans instead, or any other delicious veg! Similarly, use this simple ferment recipe and replace the radishes for favas. For pickling or fermenting, I suggest to use smaller tender beans, or remove the outer skin of the tougher large beans as needed.

And that, my friends, is how you grow and use fava beans – from seed to table.

I hope this article was interesting – and inspired you to try growing fava beans at home! Please let me know if you have any questions, and feel free to spread the fava love by sharing this article. If you’re interested in learning about other ways to organically amend your soil, you may enjoy this article about how we amend our garden beds between seasons. Thanks for tuning in, and for your interest in organic gardening!

A Summer Guide for Growing Cannabis

The seasons are changing here in Colorado and it’s time for a summer guide for growing cannabis. The days are getting longer, the weather is getting warmer, and mother earth is beginning to come back to life. Now is the time that growers across the state of Colorado are preparing their gardens for the upcoming season. Many folks are germinating new genetics, building their soils and constructing their cultivation spaces. Spring is here, and that means it’s time to grow cannabis. In Colorado, each resident over the age of 21 is allowed to grow 6 cannabis plants. Households with more than two 21-year-old residents top out at 12 plants total. The state of Colorado has given us the freedom to cultivating this incredible plant, so why not try it out for yourself? You have probably heard in the past that growing cannabis is very difficult. While cultivating top-shelf cannabis is truly an art form, growing cannabis for your own personal use can be a much easier experience and a really fun hobby. In this article, I will give you basic a basic guide for growing cannabis, how to set up your garden and have a successful outdoor crop. The growing season is upon us, so let’s get started!

Where Should I Grow?

Photo courtesy of ForwardGro

What a great question, and a great place to start! When growing cannabis outside there are a few things to consider, the most important being how much sunlight your grow space receives. Cannabis plants love sunlight. These beauties stretch and bend with the shifting of the sun across the sky each day. When choosing your grow space, choose a spot with plenty of direct sunlight. If possible, all-day sunlight is best. With that in mind, choosing a secluded space away from other people is important too. The last thing you want is to have your crop disappear because someone saw it and decided to steal it. Since this is a summer guide for growing cannabis a fenced back yard, or a greenhouse are both solid options for keeping your crop out of sight of others. Another thing to consider is how close you are to your water source. This shouldn’t be an issue if you are growing in your back yard or by your house, but if you have elected to grow somewhere else please consider how heavy water is and how difficult it can be to move. When growing in Colorado it is best to put your plants outside in mid to late May. With our weather being so unpredictable, it’s best to wait until there is very little chance of snow before moving them to their outside home.

See also  Where to get cannabis seeds australia
What Should I Grow?

Choosing your cannabis varietals is one of the most fun parts of the process. There are so many great breeders in the game these days that there is no shortage of killer strains to grow. That being said, when choosing what to grow there are a few things you should take into consideration. First, you must decide whether you are going to grow from seed or clone. If you are going to grow from seed you must decide what type of seed you are going to start with. There are three types of cannabis seeds, auto-flowering, feminized and regular seeds. For those of you that are growing for a personal stash and want to change it up and have it be different every time, auto-flowering seeds may be the choice for you. Normally cannabis plants veg and flower in different light cycles that simulate the seasons. 18/6 for spring/early summer and 12/12 for late summer/early fall. Auto-flowering plants do not have this growth trait, but instead flower when they reach a certain size. Auto-flowering plants have a shorter growth cycle and require less maintenance than regular plants, but they cannot be cloned so the genetics cannot be propagated. If you’re looking to find your own unique phenotypes of strains, either feminized seeds or regular seeds are for you. Both have the same growth cycle and growth patterns, but feminized seeds have undergone a process that genetically modifies the seed to be a female plant around 90% of the time. Feminized seeds are a great choice for the grower that is looking to find their own solid genetics and not wanting to deal with potentially popping some male plants. Regular seeds will give you male plants so you will have to keep a close eye on them and remove them when they show their sex. If you are looking to breed your own strains, you will need to use regular seeds to find the males. Breeding with regular seeds is also more ideal as their genetics are more stable than both the auto-flowering and feminized plants.

If you are wanting an easier start to the season, picking up pre-rooted clones from a dispensary is the best route to go down. There are many different stores in Denver you can get clones from, but our favorite is The Clinic who features genetics from The Bank. Growing from clone allows you to skip the germination step in the process as well as selecting the strongest phenotypes. When you buy clones the genetics have already been vetted so you know you’ll be growing strong plants. Also, having a root system that is well developed will add to the ease of use when starting from a clone.

Growing Containers and Mediums

Now that you have your cultivation space all picked out, its time now to decide what you’ll grow your plants in. There are a few different options for you to choose from, and each has its advantages and disadvantages. For containers, you have a choice between plastic, or cloth pots as well as an array of choices in the different sizes of pots. In the choice between cloth vs plastic, it mainly comes down to personal preference. Cloth pots are a bit better for the root systems of the plant as they create an environment where the roots prune themselves, thus creating a stronger, denser root ball. Plastic pots create root systems that circle the inside of the pot which some growers find to be problematic, but unless you are well versed in cultivating cannabis you probably won’t notice the difference. When growing at home, you’ll mainly be concerned with the size of your growing container. When growing cannabis, keep in mind that the bigger the pot you have the bigger your plant’s root system will be thus creating a larger plant. If you are limited on space, choose a smaller pot around a 3-gallon size. Your plants will still get plenty big, but won’t become unruly monsters. If you’re looking to grow some trees, grab yourself a 7 or 10-gallon pot. These sizes will allow a root system to form that can support a plant upwards of 8 feet tall.

Once you have your pots selected, it’s time to decide what grow medium to use. For outdoor growing, I have always enjoyed using 707 Blend soil from Roots Organic, but I have also gotten great results using Royal Gold Tupur Coco Coir and Perlite mix as well. As mediums, both soil and coco work pretty much the same, but there are a couple of subtle differences that you should take into consideration. First, coco is a completely inert medium. This means it has no nutrients or additives in it that can aid in plant growth. If you use coco for growing, you will need to add your own nutrients to the coco, or when you water so that your plant will have what it needs to grow big and strong. Many soils are sold as inert mediums, but there are many soils that have a pre-mixed blend of plant nutrients in them. If you decide to go the pre-blended route, make sure you know the concentrations of the nutrients that are in your soil. It is important to know what you are giving your plants so that you do not overfeed them. Soil will also hold water much better than coco. Coco has a tendency to dry quicker than soil, so growing in coco will require you to water and feed your plants more often.

Regardless of the medium you choose, there is a soil additive that I suggest adding to the mix. When transplanting your rooted clones or mature sprouts into their larger pots, I suggest adding Mykos to the mix. Mykos is a mycorrhizal root inoculant which will greatly help with root growth and the uptake of nutrients by your root system into your plants. You will see increased growth and stronger plant structure when using this product. Just follow the application instructions of the back of the packaging for the best results!

What Do I Feed These Ladies?

Cannabis is a hungry plant, and it requires a good amount of nutrients to reach its full potential. When cultivating, you have a couple of different options on how to deliver nutrients to your plants. One of the fun parts of growing cannabis is that you get to decide your own level of involvement for your nutrient regimens. There are easy ways to do it and more labor-intensive ways, but both can produce a great product. The easiest and least labor-intensive way to feed your plants is to mix in a nutrient blend with your soil. I have always had great results with Down to Earth’s Bio Live and Azomite products. These two products will give you a great base of nutrients for your plants to feed on. Bio Live will deliver the Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) that your plants will need to thrive and grow, while the Azomite will provide the other trace minerals that plants need to thrive. Keep in mind that you will eventually need to add more nutrients to your soil as your plant grows and uses up what you have provided for it. You can top dress your pots with both Bio Live and Azomite, or you can supplement with nutrients added to your water.

See also  G purps seeds

Mixing a feed solution each time you water is another way to give your plants the nutrients that they need, but it is a much more labor-intensive process. If you’re willing to put in the work, mixing your own feed will give you greater control over what your plants are eating, and you can dial it in for each stage of your plant’s life. There are dozens of different fertilizer brands on the market that range from 2 part to 12 part lines. If you’re new to growing, I would suggest finding a two-part line (grow and bloom) and then supplementing in a micronutrient blend as well. The more parts you have in a line of fertilizers, the more complex your process is going to be, so keep that in mind when selecting your fertilizer line. Dialing in your nutrients is one of the harder parts of growing cannabis, and can take a lot of trial and error to figure out. My suggestion is to start simple and build from there. I grew cannabis with only Peak Harvest’s Grow and Bloom formulas for a long time before adding more additives and supplements to the mix. Once you are familiar with your plants and how they uptake their food, you can then begin to experiment with what you are giving them. Always keep in mind that it’s totally possible to overfeed your plants. If you are seeing burnt leaves or major discoloration of your leaves, pull back on the amount of nutrients you are giving your plants. When dealing with nutrients oftentimes, less is more. Start small and build your way up.

Other Nutrients to Look Into for More Advanced Gardening
How do I Know When My Ladies are Ready for Harvest?

The cannabis plant has two stages of its life. The first stage is the vegetative stage where the plant grows big and strong in preparation for flowering. The second stage is the flowering stage where the cannabis plant begins to grow its large buds. When growing outside in Colorado, your plants will begin to flower somewhere in between the middle of August to the beginning of September. Most cannabis plants will fully mature in their flower cycle in 8 to 9 weeks. When the plant begins to flower, it will shoot little pre-flower hairs out of the nodes, or growth sights of the plant. You can identify nodes as the spots of the plant where new growth happens. You can see this where the new leaf and branch growth start and branch out from the main stalks. As the plant matures you will begin to see little flowers form. When you see these, begin counting the weeks until maturity and when you reach week 8 or 9, your plants will be ready for harvest. If you are unaware of how long your plants have been flowering you can also look at the buds to determine ripeness. The trichomes that cover the flowers of the cannabis plant hold the key to ripeness. Throughout the flowering cycle of the cannabis plant, the trichomes will change in color from clear, to cloudy to amber. When 75% – 80% of your trichomes are cloudy and about 20% – 25% of them are amber, your plant is at peak ripeness and is ready to harvest.

How do I Harvest Cannabis Plants?

Once you have grown your plants to maturity, it’s time to harvest them! When growing outside in Colorado, generally you will reach full maturity around the middle of October. You will want to keep an eye on the weather, as cannabis plants left outside for the first frost will die. When harvesting the cannabis plant start by shucking all of the fan leaves off of your plant. Fan leaves are any of the large leaves that you can see a stem coming off of the stalk. Once they are all removed, cut down the whole plant and hang it upside down to dry. To preserve and develop the flavor of cannabis, you want your cannabis flowers to dry slowly over the course of 10 to 14 days. I like to dry in a closet or small room where I can control the humidity and temperature. You want a relative humidity of around 55% and a temperature of around 68 – 72 degrees. You will know your cannabis plants are dried when the outside of the buds feel a little crisp, but the inside of the bud still has moisture. You can test this by bending the stalks of the plant. If the inside of the stalk snaps, but the outside just bends, you have reached the perfect moisture level.

Trimming and curing is the next step of the process. Remove the buds from the stalks and using small scissors delicately trim off the excess leaves around the buds. Once you have manicured the buds to your liking it’s time to place them in your curing vessels. I prefer glass ball jars and I would suggest that you use them, as they work the best. Place your trimmed buds in the jars and seal them up. Each day open your jars and let them sit for 15 minutes. This process is called burping and it is of crucial importance when developing the flavor of the final product. When curing, the leftover moisture is redistributed to the flowers, thus rehydrating the plant resins that contain the terpenes. Over the course of two to three weeks of burping, you will notice the flavor of the buds begin to develop. Once your flavor is fully developed, you can keep your jars sealed and your buds are ready to smoke!

What Else Do I Need To Know About Growing Cannabis?

There are many different intricacies of growing cannabis that you will learn as you go. This plant is a constant teacher and will tell you what it needs. As a grower, you need to learn how to understand what the plant is telling you and then how to correct the issues you are facing. One important thing to know is that the cannabis plant will express its needs through its leaves. Learning how to identify nutrient deficiencies or toxicity is of crucial importance. The link below is a guide that shows how possible nutrient issues express themselves in your plants. It’s a great guide to use when first learning how to read your plants.

Cannabis plants also require a certain level of pH in their root system to grow to their fullest potential. When watering and feeding your plants, your nutrient solution should have a pH range between 5.8 and 6.5 for optimal growth. You can buy an inexpensive pH reader or you can use a litmus test paper to measure pH. pH Up and pH Down are additives you can use to achieve the correct pH level for your feeding solution. Having an incorrect pH level in your plants can create nutrient lock where your plants are unable to effectively intake nutrients through their root system. This can create lots of problems with growth and bud development. If you feel like your plants aren’t growing well, or have reached a plateau, collect the runoff from your watering and test the pH level. If it’s outside of the desired range you will need to make adjustments to fix the issues.

The last thing that I want you to know in this summer guide for growing cannabis it to remember to show your plants love and affection. Cannabis plants are living and growing organisms and they will respond positively to being properly cared for. Making sure your plants are happy and taking the extra time to prune them and give them the extra attention they are asking for will only work to ensure a more bountiful harvest for you at the end. Growing cannabis can be an incredibly therapeutic experience. Spending time in your garden is good for the mind, and the act of taking care and nurturing these plants through their lives is very rewarding. Cannabis is an incredible plant that can heal and nurture humanity. If you take care of your cannabis, and your cannabis will take care of you.

We hope you enjoyed this summer guide for growing cannabis! Continue your education on the ingredients used to cultivate cannabis in our next blog, Do You Know What’s In Your Cannabis?

For a deeper dive into the cannabis plant, its various compounds and the industry that surrounds it, call and book your private educational experience with City Sessions today. 720-250-8828