How To Germinate Weed Seeds For Hydroponics

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Full picture guide on how to germinate cannabis seeds for hydroponic growing. Foam collars and Rockwool cubes are used to protect the fragile taproot A lot of people are constantly put off when it comes to germinating cannabis seeds hydroponically. This is because of how time-consuming it is and how much effort it requires. But one thing they do… Learn the basic steps of seed-starting in hydroponic systems and how to monitor primary variables that affect plant health and productivity in hydro systems.

Germinate Seeds for DWC (Hydroponic Germination)

This guide will show you how to germinate seeds for DWC (Deep Water Culture) growing.

Starting from clones is much easier than starting from seed when it comes to DWC. Seeds are fragile and require extra care when being propagated for hydroponics. This is probably the one area where soil growers have an edge over DWC. Since soil typically contains trace nutrients simply plopping a seed in moist soil is usually all it takes to get a healthy 3-4″ plant.

Materials Required for DWC Germination:

Paper Towel Germination

Start your DWC germination using a moist paper towel. Wet 2-3 sheets of paper towel using tap water. I don’t bother with adjusting pH this early into the grow. Ring the paper towel out so that it is moist but not dripping.

4.4g dry weight, 35g wet weight for the nerds out there

Spread the seeds out over the paper towel and fold over so that the seeds are sandwiched by at least two layers of paper towel. Work with clean hands and minimize air exposure after soaking.

Put this somewhere warm, 80F is ideal for germination but in my experience, anything above 65F will work fine.

Top of the fridge is an oft-recommended spot but when I actually tested surface temperatures in my house the top of my fridge was about 5 degrees colder than the top shelf in my pantry

If you live in a very cold climate like me and my fellow Canadians you can put the seeds in the oven with the light on to generate a bit of heat. Goes without saying you should put a sign up if you are using the oven method!

After 1-2 days the seedlings should crack and the taproot will begin growing. Leave them a few more days.

After 3-5 days the taproot should be over 1″ long. This is when they are ready for transplant. The seeds were a freebie so I’m ok with the 66% success rate. Typically, you should have 90% or greater germination rate for high-quality genetics.

Rockwool Sleeve

EDIT: Since writing this post I have tried inserting the rooted seedling directly into the foam collar and found it works just as well. IMO the rockwool sleeve is not necessary.

What I do next is something I came up with out of necessity. A full rockwool cube I find to be unnecessarily large. If you’ve read my DIY Cloner article you’ll know that I feel Rockwool can create a low oxygen environment where pathogens thrive.

Rockwool serves a purpose for hydroponics germination. It helps protect fragile taproots and holds water between spraying.

Start by soaking your Rockwool in pH 5.5 water.

Take a Rockwool starter plug and cut it into 4 long strips. Use a clean knife to cut a slit in these strips.

Place the germinated taproot into the slit that you created.

Rockwool Sleeves for Foam Cloning Collars

As per my DIY cloner article I prefer foam collars over neroprene. The foam holds up better and surprisingly absorbs less water.

Trim the foam collar to create room for the Rockwool sleeve

Aeroponics Cloning Nutrient Solution

  • 1 Gallon Water (Target pH 5.5) (1 mL each Micro, Gro & Bloom)
  • 1.2 mL of Rapid Start

A few drops of pH Down gets me down to 5.5

Unlike soil (which has trace nutrients) cloning/germination in hydroponics requires immediate additions of nutrients. Once you get the pH to 5.5 add:

  • 1.2 mL GH Rapid Start
  • 1 mL of FloraGro
  • 1 mL of FloraMicro
  • 1 mL of FloraBloom

My starting ppm was 100 and the final ppm was around 300.

Seedling Growth

From here the process is the same as with clones. Simply run the pump on a cycle timer and let nature do its work.

The plants will not look happy on day one, but don’t worry they will perk up quickly under the light.

Rockwool Watering (Why I started using aeroponics for germination)

aeroponics cloner I needed to water the seedlings multiple times per day, even with the humidity dome! You can also see why I have the plants so close to my light now. Fluorescents are not very strong and can cause extreme stretching if they are not within a few inches of the plants.

Best Way to Germinate Cannabis Seeds for Hydroponics

A lot of people are constantly put off when it comes to germinating cannabis seeds hydroponically. This is because of how time-consuming it is and how much effort it requires.

But one thing they do not know is that growing seeds in a hydroponic system will minimize the damage the seeds can get through other methods of germination.

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What you Need for your Hydroponic System

First, you need to have a grow tray (not to be mistaken for grow tents) to hold your plants in a hydroponic system. This will create an ideal environment for your plants to grow in. Also, to avoid certain diseases and pests that usually comes along whenever a hydroponic system is set up.

Inside your grow tray, you should invest in a heater or heating mat to maintain a temperature that will encourage growth in your seeds. Aside from that, proper lighting should be installed as well to help your seeds sprout.

Another important thing to take note of is the pot where the germination will take place. You may want to buy starter cubes that can withstand being soaked for a very long time. Rockwool has got to be one of those products that will not dissolve in water.

Step by Step directions for ontogenesis Seeds during a aquacultural System

  1. The first thing that you should do is to soak your starter cubes or Rockwool in clean water for an hour. Once they have been given a chance to soak, place a few seeds into the cube’s hole. You may want to add a few more on each cube, just in case some seeds do not germinate.
  2. Once they sprout, you can take out the weaker or unsuccessful plants to allow the strongest to prosper instead.
  3. Prepare the grow tray with an inch of clean water or a nutrient solution that is not too strong.
  4. Arrange the light source and heating mat until a suitable environment is met. You can keep the lid on to stay the warmth and wetness within the receptacle.
  5. Place the planted cubes into the grow tray and add water or the half-strength nutrient solution.
  6. After regarding four days, you’ll start to see some sprouts emerging.

Apparently, some people prefer to use Ziploc bags, rather than getting grow tray when trying to get the seeds to germinate since it functions as a greenhouse. There is nothing really wrong about that. Just make sure to seal the bag with a little bit of air and place it in a dark place for four days to get the seeds to sprout. After that, you can put the starter cubes with sprouted seeds into the grow tray.

Another method is by using a paper towel. You can easily achieve this by following the steps below:

  1. Soak four sheets of towel in water. Once soaked, you must make sure that there is water dripping off of those sheets. Too much water is not good for the seeds.
  2. Set two paper sheets on one of the plates and place the seeds at least 1 inch apart from each other. After that, cover them with the other two sheets.
  3. Cover the seeds with the second plate to keep the moisture is locked in. Be sure that you check the seeds regularly to see if they have sprouted or not.
  4. This is where you will find out if your seeds have a chance to prosper.
    Always be sure that the seeds are stored in a room where the temperature is maintained between 70 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
  5. Cannabis seeds usually sprout within 1–4 days. However, there are other seeds, older seeds to be exact, that often take up to a week to sprout.
  6. Whenever you try to check the seeds, make sure that the towels are moist. If the towels are dry, just add enough water, not too much.

You can understand that germination has occurred because the seed will split, and a touch root seems. Be sure that you don’t touch the taproot when it sprouts or during the transplantation process since it is very fragile.

Just be sure to use a paper towel that is nonporous. Using a porous paper towel will cause the cannabis seeds to cling to the pores of the paper towels.

Conclusion

Although you may not be successful at first, that is just part of life. You win, you lose; all that matters is
that you learn through these experiences. Even if you lose a few seeds in the process, you should not be disheartened by it since it happens to everyone — even if you follow the rules and step as meticulously as possible.

The Weed Blog has an article that directly compares traditional soil germination and hydroponics. Have a read at it if you are still undecided on what method to use; it might help.

Germinating through the process of Hydroponics is definitely a chore, but it is still worth it once you see the roots of your cannabis plants soaking wet and brimming with life. Once you succeed, you will be enjoying every hit you take from your own weed growth.

Hydroponic Seed Starting for Healthy Hydroponic Seedlings

Hydroponics is a technology-based form of controlled environment agriculture (CEA) where yields per square foot can be higher than those of traditional in-soil farming. Crops grown in hydroponic systems require daily management, however, in contrast to some field crops that can be grown with little attention for extended periods of time.

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In this article we provide simple steps for successful hydroponic seed-starting, then introduce some of the primary environmental variables that need to be closely monitored to produce healthy hydroponic seedlings:

We do not currently conduct hydroponic trials at Johnny’s research farm, but have compiled this information from our hydroponic trial cooperators, academic and industry resources, and independent hydroponic growers.

10 Steps for Successful Hydroponic Seed-Starting

  1. CHOOSE VARIETIES BRED, SELECTED, AND TRIALED IN HYDROPONIC SYSTEMS.

What to Monitor & Why: The Primary Environmental Variables of Hydroponic Systems

MONITORING TOOLS

You may want to have a few monitoring tools on hand. Most of these devices are reasonably affordable and readily available from hydroponic growing suppliers.

  • Thermometer
  • EC (electroconductivity) meter
  • Light meter
  • pH strips or test kit
TABLE 1. BASIC ENVIRONMENTAL REQUIREMENTS FOR GROWING HYDROPONIC CROPS

TEMPERATURE

Temperatures that are too high or too low will result in poor germination and increase the risk of disease. The optimum temperature range will vary by crop and lifecycle stage; follow individual growing instructions for each crop you are growing.

Once established, plants need an approximately 10°F (12°C) drop between daytime and nighttime temperatures to grow properly. For example, an ideal temperature range for many crops is 75°F (24°C) in the daytime and 60–65°F (16–18°C) at night. Most crops (other than tropical varieties) cannot efficiently photosynthesize at temperatures exceeding 85–90°F (29–32°C).

Supplemental lighting in the protected culture setting can significantly increase the ambient temperature. Also note that to avoid root damage, temperature of the nutrient solution should be maintained no warmer than ambient temperatures.

Plain water normally has a pH of 7.0–8.2. Most nutrient solutions are acidic, and once added to the water source, will decrease the pH.

The pH of the nutrient solution can significantly affect the plant’s ability to take up nutrients. For most crops and hydroponic systems, the ideal pH range is 5.8–6.2 (slightly higher for organic and aquaponic systems).

Ways of measuring pH include using:

  • pH meter
  • litmus paper test strips
  • indicator solution

To understand how pH fluctuates in your specific growing environment, you may want to take routine pH measurements of the following:

  • water source
  • water/nutrient solution
  • growing medium with nutrient solution added

If the pH is off, use a commercially available pH adjustment solution (called “pH Up” or “pH Down”) to adjust your pH accordingly.

If you monitor pH regularly, you will see that the pH slowly rises as the plants take up nutrients. When you replenish the nutrient solution, you will see the pH fall again. More dramatic changes in pH can be indicative of disease; for example, root rot can cause the pH to drop to 3.0–5.0, while algal growth can raise pH levels above optimal levels.

LIGHT

Temperatures that are too high or too low will result in poor germination and increase the risk of disease. The optimum temperature range will vary by crop and lifecycle stage; follow individual growing instructions for each crop you are growing.

DAILY LIGHT INTEGRAL

Growers, particularly in the protected-culture setting, find it useful to quantify light levels in units referred to as the daily light integral (DLI). The DLI is the amount of photosynthetically active radiation (photons) that plants receive each day. Just as you can use a rain gauge to measure rainfall, you can use a light meter to measure DLI, typically expressed as moles of light (mol) per square meter (m 2 ) per day.

RECOMMENDED LIGHT LEVELS

Most vegetables need 14 hours of sunlight per day and at least 12 mol per m 2 per day. Strawberries grown hydroponically prefer 15–25 mols of DLI with a minimum of 12, measured at the canopy level, in the greenhouse. Plants in greenhouses typically experience a 25%–50% reduction in DLI below that of outdoor levels due to glazing and shading from the structure. Depending upon the crop and a host of variables that influence natural light levels, supplemental lighting may thus be needed at certain times of the year or year-round.

LIGHT COLOR

If you are using supplemental lighting, light color is an additional factor to consider. Plants use light within the visible wavelength range of 400–700 nanometers (nm). Herbs and leafy greens fare best with lights emitting a higher proportion at the blue end of the spectrum (450–496 nm), which encourages vegetative growth. Crops like tomatoes prefer lights that emit a higher proportion at the red end of the spectrum (620–750 nm), which encourages flowering and fruiting. Ultraviolet light (UV) aids development of fruit color in crops such as strawberries. LED lights are the most energy-efficient option, and some are adjustable for color to suit crop needs.

HYDROPONIC NUTRIENT SOLUTIONS & CONCENTRATIONS

The home gardener or beginning grower will want to start with one of the many preformulated solutions on the market. Each comes with its own instructions for mixing and application.

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To monitor nutrient concentrations, measure the electroconductivity (EC) of the solution in your system over time. Use an electrical conductivity meter to detect the level of total dissolved nutrients in the hydroponic solution expressed on a scale of milliSiemens per centimeter (mS/cm). The package directions will indicate the desired EC levels. Note, however, that EC is not a reliable indicator if you are using organic fertilizer solutions.

Record the EC when you mix up your solution and then monitor it daily. You will see the EC drop as plants take up the nutrients. Once it falls below an acceptable range, you will want to add more nutrient solution; determine the amount to add based on the percentage drop you have seen in the EC.

You may want to take measurements both from the nutrient solution itself and from sample points in your growing medium; this will allow you to get a sense for whether your growing medium is accumulating a build-up of nutrients.

Temperatures that are too high or too low will result in poor germination and increase the risk of disease. The optimum temperature range will vary by crop and lifecycle stage; follow individual growing instructions for each crop you are growing.

RECOMMENDED NUTRIENT LEVELS

Optimum EC levels vary by crop. Plants will require lower EC in warmer months and higher EC in cooler months and when fruiting. A suggested range is provided in Table 2; however, you will need to experiment to find the optimal range for your crop, season, and growing system.

TABLE 2. NUTRIENT REQUIREMENTS FOR COMMON HYDROPONICS CROPS
REPLACING THE NUTRIENT SOLUTION

A shortcoming of EC is that it does not reveal the specific chemical makeup of nutrients in the water, only the overall nutrient levels. Plants take up individual nutrients at different rates, and thus it is possible for the solution to become imbalanced over time, even if the EC is still within an acceptable range.

For this reason, the nutrient solution should be completely changed on a regular basis. Recommendations on how frequently to change the solution vary; start by replacing your solution every 3–4 weeks, or whenever you see symptoms of deficiency or toxicity in your plants.

ORGANIC FERTILIZERS IN HYDROPONICS

Using organic fertilizers can present more of a challenge than using synthetic ones.

  • The composition of organic fertilizer mixtures is less precise than that of their synthetic counterparts, and nutrient deficiencies can be encountered more readily as a result.
  • Organic fertilizers can also contain high levels of carbon, which in excess can contribute to fungal and bacterial growth.
  • Finally, EC is not a reliable indicator of actual nutrient concentrations, which can also make it harder to monitor and ensure adequate levels with organic fertilizers.

If you elect to use organic fertilizers, we recommend choosing a product specifically designed for hydroponic systems unless you have the capacity to run trials.

WATER

Testing your water source will help you to understand how naturally occurring elements in the water may affect plant growth. If you have hard water (ie, high concentrations of calcium and magnesium in the water), you may want to use a nutrient solution designed for hard water. Water treated with sodium or other water-softening chemicals can be detrimental to plants. High levels of salt in the water can limit calcium uptake and lead to disease (research suggests that water with salt levels of 3000ppm can reduce yields by 10–25%).

CARBON DIOXIDE

Plants need adequate levels of carbon dioxide (CO2) to photosynthesize; low CO2 levels reduce growth and can cause flower and fruit drop, reducing overall yields.

Indoor growing environments can be prone to becoming CO2 deficient. This is most likely to happen in a closed greenhouse system on sunny, cold winter mornings when ventilation fans are not running and plants are actively photosynthesizing, using up available CO2. Plants can deplete available CO2 in as little as just 1 hour in a closed greenhouse.

You can ensure adequate CO2 with appropriate ventilation.

AIR CIRCULATION

Good air circulation helps reduce disease pressure, dissipate pockets of air that are too high or low in temperature, and as discussed above, ensure plants receive adequate CO2. Air movement can also help seedlings develop a thicker stem, producing a shorter, stockier, less leggy plant.

OXYGEN LEVELS

Oxygen is imperative for plant growth. Overwatering and compaction of the growing medium can both limit oxygen to the roots, leading to root death. Using a medium that supports good aeration is important for maintaining healthy oxygen levels.

Oxygen levels in the nutrient solution are a function of temperature; when the nutrient solution is too warm, the plants’ access to oxygen is compromised. Some growers use an air pump to aerate the nutrient solution and a water chiller to cool the nutrient solution down to an optimal temperature.

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